Classic Lunch Car and Burgers, Gilley’s P.M. Lunch, Portsmouth, NH

Gilley's PM Lunch Wagon by Night

Sit Right Down

Gettin' It Good on Gilley's Griddle

This has been one of the places I’d wanted to visit since I’d gotten my copy of Hamburger America and read the Gilley’s P.M. Lunch entry. Jessica flew up to meet me in Boston, arranging her flight to land in Manchester, NH. I triangulated her position and did some Calculating to determine if going to Gilley’s P.M. Lunch in Portsmouth made sense. Our being a mere hour away was nothing compared to the 7 or 8 hours it would normally be. This is how I justify stupid trips just for hamburgers. And Jessica just rolls her eyes at me.

Gilley’s is a little hard to find and is tucked away on a quiet street in Portsmouth. It’s an old Worcester lunch car which has been around serving food to customers since 1940. According to the history tab on Gilley’s website, this particular model was just one of five built and is the only one still in operation today. It was quite cozy with eight stools, some room for a few more folks to stand, the ordering counter, and the griddle and kitchen area. Before the lunch car was in place, Gilley’s would serve food from a horse drawn cart dating back to 1912. A true classic institution.

Gilley's Single Cheeseburger

The Gilley Detail

The fresh beef thin patty burgers were griddled right in front of us; the fries were put in the deep-fryer around the corner. I started with a single cheeseburger “Loaded” (ketchup, mustard, relish, and mayo). The beef was unseasoned save for the char from the griddle. According to Hamburger America, it’s fresh ground pattied chuck loin that is 85-88% lean and served in patties of around 3 ounces. I thought the burger was quite similar to my Philadelphia favorite, Charlie’s, but a little less greasy and less overwhelming cheese flavor. It was on a standard squishy white hamburger bun that was toasted. I think that getting the works was also a bit overwhelming and prevented the taste of the beef from shining through. A solid, classic, thin patty burger.

Chili Dog

The Chili Dog Mess

I was a little ambitious in ordering not just a hot dog, but a chili dog. This natural skin smoked dog, sourced from Shields Provisions in Kennebunk, Maine and designed to replace the beloved dog from Schultz, had quite a bit of snap to it and the little twisty end parts, but the seasoning was a little weak and the meat a bit plain. Perhaps some char-grilling could have saved it. It wasn’t bad, but not quite world class to me, though it did have a world class appearance. It came on that weird New England sliced white-bread with crusts bun thing that is popular, but more bready than crusty. Definitely the chili was a mistake, not because of taste, but because of the sloppiness in conjunction with mustard and the very generous portion of onions. I got one bite of of this before everything collapsed and I had to use a fork. I think a plain dog is probably warranted for better comparison in the future.

Poutine, the Canadians Call It

I had to avoid the plain fries in place of the bacon cheese gravy poutine. Wow. This is an impressive little heart attack in a paper boat. The hand-cut skin-on fries were crisp and good on their own, but add on those three ingredients, and it’s an impressive situation. The bacon was the consistency of bacon bits that you might find on a salad bar, but definitely from fresh cooked bacon and a little more chewy than crisp. Jessica wasn’t quite sure of the chewiness, but it suited me just fine. The gravy had a little spiciness to it which helped in the overall flavor. The cheese was cheese sauce rather than the more traditional cheese curd. I had a little discussion with some other customers and the counter man regarding the proper pronunciation of the Canadian term “poutine” versus quite improper and offensive, but similarly sounding French terms. We won’t get into that entomology here, but know that you should proceed with caution before adopting this foreign term so wily-nily.

The Double Cheeseburger Is Where It's At

Under the Hood

Into the Double

The single burger was good, but deep in my heart, I knew that Gilley’s could do better. The ratio of bun to burger to cheese was askew and my taste buds needed proper reconciliation. So, much to Jessica’s chagrin (though she knew it would happen), I returned to order a double cheeseburger. And I was so glad I did, if only to spend more time in the rustic, classic lunch wagon. The double did properly restore the ratio in a golden triangle between bun, beef, and cheese. I could sleep easy knowing. And this was a great burger. Much later, I did realized that George Motz suggested the bacon double cheeseburger, so there must be something extra special by adding bacon to the burger. I’ll remember that for the next trip and give it a try.

I should also mention that the counter man, whom I believe was owner Stephen Kennedy, was quite friendly and welcoming, helping Jessica and I pick out our selections and giving us a bit of the Gilley’s history.

Gilley’s P.M. Lunch is a true landmark. From the classic building to the classic-style burgers, it is a spot worthy of hamburger lovers.

Hall of Fame

Verdict: Gilley’s P.M. Lunch is really my kind of place and truly worthy of the Hamburger Calculus Hall of Fame. A must stop if you are anywhere near Portsmouth.

Tags: bacon, french fries, hamburger america, hamburgers, hot dogs, new hampshire, poutine, road trip, roadfood